Damascus Striking Knife with handle

I ripped up some curly maple stock for tool handles and also found a smaller sized blank of the same ‘tiger maple’, but not a lot of stripes and fashioned a handle to match my other tool handles.  I use the tapered octagonal handles like illustrated in Moxon or from the 1596 ill fated Nova Zembla expedition, I do like the Dutch influence, on all my chisel and other tool handles.

Great shape and they don’t roll off the bench.  Early on in my apprenticeship I had a chisel roll off the bench and I caught it before it hit the ground and damaged the edge.  I immediately changed all of my chisel handles to the tapered octagon design.  Well, not exactly immediately, I had to attend to a gash on my hand and blood on the tool.  The blood got removed first then I attended to the nasty wound.

Since that time, nearly 40 years ago, I have purposefully lost my ‘catch’ response.  I literally can’t play catch.  Now if a tool drops, I quickly and safely move out of the way and deal with a damaged tool rather than a lacerated hand.

I shaped the curly maple with a small Moxon smoother then went to my toothing plane to deal with some tear out.  Worked great, then a scraper to remove the toothing marks.  Then using a very fine drill and two very narrow chisels I excavated a rectangular tapered hole in the narrow end to hold the Damascus/pattern welded blade in place.  Once it was fit tight, I etched the blade with a clove of garlic and used a bit of fish glue to secure it in place.

A coat of Moses T’s St. John’s Oil and it is ready to strike out.

Stephen

 

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Fat over Lean

Not only my preference for meat [apologies to my vegetarian friends] but also my preferred method of applying linseed oil.  This tradition dates back centuries and the Old Masters would follow this rule while oil painting.

The basic rule is using a ‘lean’ oil first.  Lean oil is linseed oil that has been thinned with turpentine [Moses T’s Reviver is my most lean oil, followed by Moses T’s St. John’s Oil].  After this has dried [at least 24 hours] then a ‘fat’ oil [Moses T’s Gunstocker’s Finish is a fat oil finish] is applied.

The reason for this is because a fat oil will adhere better to a lean oil rather than vice-versa.  This has to do with the available bonding sites and some other alchemy, but it works and has been a standard for several hundred years.

So when applying linseed oil as a finish or to pop the grain of the wood, thin it with turpentine for the first coat, then it can be used undiluted for the successive coats.

Stephen

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Traditional Putty for woodworking

I needed some putty for a large scale restoration job, the woodwork on a building constructed in 1850.  This is for exterior application on sills, lintels, bargeboards, moldings, etc.  Mostly for covering cut nails used in the restoration, but some to fill seasoning cracks.

Here is my recipe based on traditional formulations: 1/2 cup whiting [calcium carbonate], 2 tablespoons of zinc oxide [metallic dryer] and 3 ounces of Moses T’s St. John’s Oil and mixed together.

It takes a while to dry and does remain flexible for wood movement.

Stephen

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